How to care for reptile pets guides? Originally from East Africa, the sulcata tortoise is often seen in zoos and conservatories. But, they’re also a highly sought-after species in the pet trade. They are one of the largest tortoise species in the world, so caring for one is not for the faint of heart. Full-grown tortoises can reach 25 to 30 inches in size and tip the scales at over 100 pounds. Not only that, but they have a long lifespan. In good living conditions, a sulcata tortoise can live for 70 years or more! Thanks to their massive size, sulcata tortoises need a large outdoor enclosure. They love to explore and move around the habitat, so you cannot keep these creatures in confined spaces. Most owners will build a dedicated enclosure using tall concrete walls. While you might think that wooden fences would suffice, these reptiles are quite strong. They can easily blow through wood fences. These pet tortoises can also escape by other means. They are capable of climbing objects and burrowing in the substrate. So, take some extra time when planning the perfect habitat! The yellow-footed tortoise is very similar to the red-footed tortoise. However, it doesn’t feature the same intense coloration. But that doesn’t mean that this species is any less beautiful!
Fortunately, many pet snakes will accept dead prey. If yours does, consider keeping a separate small freezer for what are delicately called “prey items”. Dead mice and rats of various ages can be purchased in frozen packages through pet supply stores and directly from people who breed “feeder” mice. For health reasons, it is best to keep your snake’s dinner separately from your own foods. Depending on the snake, she might scarf down three or four at one meal, or she might only eat one. You’ll need to keep half a dozen on hand, in any case. Try starting with prey items that are about the same size around the middle as your snake is. If your snake won’t touch dead prey items, try wiggling the meal a bit, to make it move. Also, try putting a piece of fabric over the tank as a “privacy curtain”. Sometimes one or both of those will do the trick. If that fails, you might need to feed your snake live prey. This is more complicated, and not for the faint of heart. You’ll need to watch the snake hunting and killing the larger prey, because it is dangerous to the snake to leave an adult rodent alone with her. The panicked creature could injure the snake with its claws and teeth.
Mexican alligator lizards need a pretty humid environment, and a level of 80 percent is the sweet spot. Humidity levels that stray too far away from that number can lead to serious health complications for Abronia graminea. You have a couple of options for keeping the humidity level so high. You can use a hand mister twice a day, or you can install a special reptile fogger. Having a good substrate and putting plants in the enclosure can help with humidity as well. It might take a little bit of trial and error to find the right setup that keeps things stable (and saves you from misting more than you have to). Mexican alligator lizards will drink the water droplets that form after you mist the enclosure, so you won’t need to create any special kind of watering system for them. That makes them rather low-maintenance in this regard! The only thing you need to consider is ensuring that the water you’re misting the enclosure with is safe. Make sure it’s free of chlorine or other harmful chemicals, and your pet will be just fine. See extra information at reptile pet habitat guides.
Bluetongues make ideal pets as they readily adapt to captivity, do not mind regular handling, are easy to feed and have fairly straightforward living requirements (for reptiles). However, like all reptiles, the cost of purchase of the animal is small compared to the cost of proper housing, lighting and heating and should be considered thoughtfully before proceeding. Bluetongues have a preferred body temperature (PBT) of 28ºC and their enclosure should provide a temperature range of 2-3ºC either side of this PBT. Use a ceramic or infra-red heat-lamp at one end of the enclosure. Provision of logs or rocks placed under and around the heat source, allows your lizard to choose the right distance when basking and a hollow log or upturned flowerpot provides a cool retreat.
The red-footed tortoise comes from Central and South America. It’s steadily gotten more popular in the reptile trade. Thanks to its active nature and unique appearance, this type of pet tortoise is quite popular among collectors and beginner reptile fans alike. These tortoises get their common name from the distinct coloration of their skin. The legs feature several brightly colored scales. The red scales are sporadic, creating a spotted appearance. You may even see some tortoises with red along the face and head. The carapace is more muted. The raised scutes are typically dark brown, black, or gray. However, the raised center usually features a splash of light tan. Red-footed tortoises are long-lived creatures. With proper care, most will live anywhere between 30 and 50 years in captivity! Read extra info at https://reptilehq.com/.